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  • 25 de febrero de 2022
  • 1.011 comentarios

Carelmapu: un paraíso de colores

En Carelmapu, se puede hacer lo que ya es un lujo en cualquier sitio invadido por la vida urbana: visitar su caleta de pescadores y comprar directamente la especialidad pesquera del lugar, mariscos y moluscos como el loco, erizos, picoroco, almejas a un precio muy módico y de muy buena calidad.

Por Edison Ortiz

Carelmapu -en mapudungun significa “tierra verde”-, es una localidad que administrativamente pertenece a la comuna de Maullín, que se distingue por sus paisajes llenos de colores, sus mariscos, sus playas y fiestas y por estar, literalmente, frente a la isla grande de Chiloé. Desde el embarcadero, muelles o mirador se puede ver nítidamente el cruce de los ferris desde Pargua a Chacao.

Viniendo desde Maullín hacia el suroeste, se transita por una ruta de unos 15 kilómetros hasta llegar a una plaza donde se puede disfrutar de la postal típica de acceso al pueblo que, como en el cuadro de Pacheco Altamirano, está llena de embarcaciones pequeñas que flotan sobre un mar apacible y con un paisaje multicolor.

En Carelmapu, se puede hacer lo que ya es un lujo en cualquier sitio invadido por la vida urbana: visitar su caleta de pescadores y comprar directamente la especialidad pesquera del lugar, mariscos y moluscos como el loco, erizos, picoroco, almejas a un precio muy módico y de muy buena calidad. Desde allí, dichos productos cada día son embarcados hacia la zona central, por ejemplo a algunas pescaderías de Rancagua.

En esa caleta cada inicio del mes de febrero, los buzos y pescadores agradecen a la santa patrona, Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, que es llevada en andas desde la iglesia hasta el mar, en una procesión en el mar que reúne cada año a miles de personas, procedentes de varias partes del país. La localidad se llena de gente que alterna entre devoción, bullicio, mercachifles, venta de comida chatarra, artesanía ecuatoriana y boliviana, saltimbanquis y productos de plástico chinos. Sin embargo, la fiesta de las luces de la Cancelaria se encuentra suspendida por la pandemia durante los dos últimos años.

Allí, en esa localidad se encuentran también algunas playas espectaculares como Mar Brava y Balchamo.

La primera, de muy buenas olas, ha convocado durante los dos últimos años a surfistas de todas partes, quienes han hecho de esta playa uno de sus lugares preferidos para la práctica de este deporte que ha crecido en adeptos en los últimos años. Allí se pueden observar escenas espectaculares de su acantilado, como también, cuando la marea lo permite, se pueden recoger mariscos y moluscos en sus playas.

Balchamo es una playa cercada por recintos privados, a la cual se puede acceder tras caminar cerca de un kilómetro, ejercicio cuyo premio es una vista maravillosa desde una bajada espectacular.

Ambas playas reciben visitas muy selectas a las cuales les debe gustar la soledad, el sonido del viento y las olas, sin ese turismo de masas que lo destruye y ensucia todo.

Quienes visiten el lugar disfrutarán del privilegio de sus paisajes que, con toda razón, le dan el nombre de “tierra verde” con un mar lleno de colores, vistas que preparan para el goce de mariscos y moluscos.

Sin embargo, como todo paraíso, hoy Carelmapu y sus playas, en especial Mar Brava, se encuentran amenazadas por la especulación inmobiliaria de la Fundación Punta de Lobos que, bajo el pretexto de la conservación, ha comenzado a lotear terrenos que llegan hasta la playa, tal como ya ha ocurrido en Balchamo. La situación ha generado la molestia de los vecinos quienes se han agrupado en “Defendamos Carelmapu”, organización que busca mantener el carácter de este territorio. Precisamente, el jueves 17 pasado se reunieron los paisanos de la localidad para ver cómo enfrentar esta nueva agresión ambiental que se suma a otros proyectos que han querido instalarse en este bello pueblo.

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