Revalorando la cultura desde el territorio
Por Raúl Paredes Ríos, chef, gestor cultural, instructor de gastronomía en Región de los Lagos
Sin duda que los acontecimientos sociales y políticos recientes no han dejado a nadie indiferente. La implementación de la Convención Constitucional, encabezada por su presidenta Elisa Loncón, es mucho más que una reivindicación icónica como algunas personas medianamente informadas pueden pensar. Es más bien un despertar hacia la cultura indígena, que siempre ha estado con nosotros sin querer darnos cuenta, lo que nos hace distintos a lo que ocurre en países vecinos como Bolivia y Perú y gran parte de América Latina, que no rescata patrimonio cultural porque ellos nunca lo han perdido.
Soy parte de una tercera generación, huilliche, urbana, que no quiere perder lo más preciado del aire, del verde y del agua, para difundir la riqueza cultural de la región de los Lagos. Una cultura que se mantiene en las tradiciones orales y lo escrito como testigos de un mundo, sus viajeros y protagonistas: aquellos hombres y mujeres que trabajan la tierra, el mar y sus recursos, con lluvia, frío y esfuerzos agotadores.
Desde mi formación profesional, mi inquietud constante es que mas allá de los íconos, permanezca el entendimiento, el significado de cada elemento y su sentido en la visión de la vida, que puede convivir y adaptarse a lo actual, sin tener motivo para esconderse ni temor a mezclarse. Eso es cultura viva que la encontramos en la vestimenta, colores accesorios y por supuesto también en los alimentos. Qué importante es conocer y entender que nuestros pueblos originarios se alimentaban a través de plato único, sobrevivían con aplicación de técnicas de conservación, usando el ingenio, la superación de problemas y, sobre todo, el trabajo colaborativo. Hay en esto un reflejo profundo de lo humano, como se puede ver en la calapurca en el norte, el umu en Rapa Nui o una chochoca en el sur de Chile.
Experiencia en San Juan de la Costa
En la proximidad de la costa de Osorno, San Juan de la Costa es la cabecera de un territorio en el que están desplegadas comunidades huilliches, en un aislamiento que se prolongó hasta hace algunas décadas y que aseguró la prolongación de su cultura, que Raúl Paredes intenta fortalecer desde la práctica culinaria.
Esa cultura viva es la que quisimos relevar en la realidad diaria de los habitantes de San Juan de la Costa, hacia el litoral de Osorno, donde se dio vida a clases de cocina mapuche para jóvenes y adultos.
En alianza con el municipio, organizaciones y con fondos concursables los miembros de esa comunidad elaboraron recetas tradicionales, poniendo en valor los ingredientes propios: chochoca, pan, salteados, salsas, tartas y bombones rellenos con identidad local al merken, a la sal de mar, con maqui o murta. Todo lo que prepararon no solo fue degustado, sino que fue creciendo con el objetivo de transitar desde el icono a la puesta en valor, desde lo simple, desde el origen y a partir del trabajo de ellos mismos.
Ante tan nobles resultados y la ausencia de textos que expresen obras concretas más que diagnósticos, nació también “Sabores Ancestrales”, escrito que considera el trabajo de personas y comunidades. Considera diversos aspectos de la vida diaria, destacando por ejemplo a las hilanderas de huso y su exquisita técnica de tejido que pervive, el trabajo de familias recolectoras de cochayuyo o a la señora Olga y la fineza de la artesanía en boqui. El texto recoge la voluntad de organizarse de las tejedoras de Bahía Mansa, los morteros de piedra y las recetas de cocina como el pebre de cochayuyo, el róbalo al pangue, el estofado y empanadas de loco. Platos que, por supuesto deben ser acompañados con unas deliciosas tortillas de rescoldo y luego reposadas con un café y galletas de avellanas para cerrar una grata y memorable experiencia.
Es de esperar que pasada la pandemia podamos retomar el trabajo realizado, para apoyar también en otras comunidades con la intención de contribuir a la formación cultural desde los niños. Queremos contribuir a que en un futuro cercano cada vez menos personas estén superficialmente informadas, estacionadas en lo icónico sin considerar el trasfondo cultural que en el Chile de ayer no nos atrevíamos a mostrar.
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