Lago Huillinco, sede de un pecado capital

Orillando buena parte de la ruta entre Chonchi y Cucao, en la Isla Grande de Chiloé, el lago Huillinco es imán para un turismo que va a la caza del encanto chilote y, por qué no, de un buen cordero al palo, asado con técnicas ancestrales.

Por Edison Ortiz

Salimos muy temprano desde Maullín rumbo a Pargua, en el borde continental del canal de Chacao. En la 5 Sur, recogimos a nuestro amigo chef Raúl Paredes, quien nos acompañaría en esta ruta excepcional. Tuvimos que hacer fila en el embarcadero para cruzar el Chacao; en igual fecha del año pasado, en el transbordador íbamos solo tres vehículos.

El viaje fue rápido y en apenas 25 minutos estábamos ya en la isla grande de Chiloé. De allí partimos raudos hacia Castro y comprobamos, para mala suerte nuestra, que Chiloé no es lo que es sin tacos en la carretera.

A eso de las 13:30 pasamos el interminable taco de acceso norte a la capital de la isla y enfilamos rumbo al lago Huillinco para llegar a tiempo a nuestro propósito: participar de un rico cordero al palo preparado por un experto, don Mario Quelín.

Llegamos al emblemático lago –que en mapudungun significa agua de huillines (la nutria de agua dulce del sur)– a eso de las 14:00, donde nos esperaba nuestro amigo Gonzalo, el capitán, quien nos llevaría al otro extremo del Huillinco en una lancha muy rápida, a motor.

El día azulado y con la marea tranquila invitaban a navegar por el imponente lago que, por el otro extremo, se llama Cucao. Lo navegamos, bordeando sus orillas para evitar el fuerte oleaje del centro hasta llegar al epicentro de nuestra gula.

Desembarcamos con todos nuestros equipos necesarios para el par de días que estaríamos allí, Agustín, Marcel, Raúl y yo, lo que incluía unos buenos mostos de Colchagua para pasar el cordero y algunos chardonnays para disfrutar del róbalo frito, lo que evidencia la riqueza culinaria de nuestra variada geografía.

Allí, don Mario y Aliro ya estaban preparando la faena del cordero, atravesando la carne fresca del cordero con el palo grueso de luma, que es como se prepara en el lago desde tiempos inmemoriales.

Don Mario es descendiente directo del pueblo Huilliche. Su familia y él mismo navegan estas aguas desde tiempos ancestrales, por eso, maneja todos los vericuetos del lago como el más experto capitán de barco. Todo ese conocimiento lo vuelca en un notable emprendimiento turístico en la zona.

Mientras preparan el agasajo, lo voy entrevistando para conocer cuáles son los secretos del cordero más sabroso de Chile.

Nos cuenta que la carne se atraviesa en madera de luma, porque mantiene un sabor natural y también porque así se hacía antes de que apareciera el fierro. Nos relata que el secreto es que esté fresca –ojalá el cordero sea despotado el mismo día- y que se espolvoree con una buena cantidad de sal gruesa.

Mientras se sazona, se prepara el fuego con leña seca de madera nativa –arrayanes, por ejemplo- en el suelo. La carne hay que ponerla cuando las brasas están incandescentes para que no se arrebate.

Es importante señalar que, si bien la carne ovina está presente en muchas partes del país, sus técnicas de cocción son distintas como en este caso en que lo aconsejable es que se formen costras en la carne que permitan mantenerla jugosa en su interior.

Luego de aproximadamente dos horas girándolo cada cierto tiempo, el cordero está listo para saborearlo, es decir caliente y acompañado con vinos fuertes o chicha de manzana, papás y ensaladas variadas. Lo que viene luego es tan importante como lo previo: apreciar una infusión de hierbas que permita una mejor digestión de las grasas y concluir con un buen bajativo y un café natural de Colombia mientras disfrutamos del paisaje con bosques y el lago de fondo.

Así fue como alcanzamos por unos momentos otro trozo de cielo y caímos presa, con nuestra mayor complicidad y obsecuencia, de uno de los siete pecados capitales: la gula.

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