En el litoral de Osorno, localidades pobladas desde tiempos inmemoriales por comunidades huilliches atraen con paisajes espectaculares, gastronomía propia y expresiones de la cultura ancestral.
Por Edison Ortiz
Continuamos nuestro viaje por la desconocida costa de la provincia de Osorno. Dormimos en El Refugio de Caty, en Bahía Mansa, uno de los pocos sitios preparados para atender bien a sus visitantes. Nos levantamos muy temprano, desayunamos y partimos raudos hacia Pucatrihue otra playa con muy buena perspectiva donde, en uno de sus roqueríos descansa el abuelo o taita Huentellao, mito ancestral de la cultura huilliche que media entre los seres humanos y las divinidades.
Precisamente, mientras las olas del mar golpean fuerte contra las rocas, nos encontramos con una comunidad huilliche haciendo la plegaria al mitológico ser para que el año sea abundante. Allí descalz@s, bailan, oran y dan vueltas en círculos por la playa mientras pregonan sus bienaventuranzas.
Debemos recordar que las rogativas del pueblo huilliche son una tradición que los distingue de otros pueblos originarios. Sin embargo, su cultura y tradiciones no tienen una correspondencia con el quehacer institucional público, sea estatal o municipal, por lo que, a excepción de una mínima iconografía en rutas, carecen de museos o exposiciones permanentes para mostrar sus expresiones de identidad.
Allí, esta crítica se conecta con la discusión que existe hoy en la constituyente respecto de la identidad y rescate patrimonial de estos pueblos ricos en historia y tradiciones, pero cuya gestión no está a la altura de lo alcanzado por Perú, Bolivia, Ecuador o México la que, además, ha permitido transformar sus hitos culturales en sitios turísticos de interés mundial.
Enseguida, no podíamos irnos de ese litoral precioso sin probar productos locales que le dan vida al caserío, precisamente en una fecha bullente porque es día de pago y en torno al encuentro espiritual se desarrolla una intensa actividad comercial con productos típicos de la zona. Entre esos productos destaco el cochayuyo, los chupones que saboreamos íntegramente con Agustín y, por supuesto, la sierra ahumada cuya receta pudimos conocer de memoria, pues nos la entregó ese chef ancestral que las preparaba en un horno de lata acondicionado para la ocasión. El pez debe estar fresco, se corta en trozos de similar tamaño y de forma rectangular, se les pone un poco de sal de mar y se los deja adobando por un tiempo. Luego, se introducen en el horno a leña, con madera nativa como el coigüe, el tepual o la luma, ojalá en forma de aserrín para que impacte mejor sobre el aroma final del producto. Luego de cerca de dos horas de estar sometidos al calor y el humo, la sierra esta lista para comerla, que fue lo que precisamente hicimos.
Luego de disfrutar de ese banquete por la mañana partimos rumbo a la comunidad indígena Choroy Traiguén con vistas espectaculares de la playa y un paisaje litoral del que recomendamos el mirador, aunque no muy temprano por la presencia de niebla por la mañana.
Allí se puede gozar de las arenas blancas inéditas en el sur de Chile, así como la fuerza del mar y de las olas golpeando con toda su energía viva contra las rocas.
En ese entorno natural espectacular, lleno de postales y paisajes que encantan, no podemos obviar que también hay dificultades. Ya hablamos de la escuálida gestión de la cultura patrimonial ancestral por parte de las instituciones públicas y privadas y de los propios pueblos y cuyo ícono es la oficina municipal de turismo de Maicolpué, visitada en diversos horarios pero siempre cerrada. Aparte de ello, está el tarifado de restoranes y alojamientos: no se corresponde con la calidad de la oferta. Y si los precios son un problema, otro es la disponibilidad de los locales, puesto que los hay cerrados a toda hora y sin continuidad de atención.
El paisaje, la geografía y la cultura allí están, solo falta gestionarlas mejor. He ahí un desafío para los gestores de estas tierras preciosas y encantadoras.
53 comentarios en “Maicolpué, Pucatrihue y el abuelo Huentellao”
Excelente relato, las rogativas Mapuche, los bailes y los motivos son de una profundidad sobre cogedora, intensas y muy importantes así como trascendentes.
La historia del Tata Huentellao ser mágico protector benefactor se entremezcla con un portal que se ubicaría en las rocas frente a Pucatrihue según mi interpretación “lugar de muchos cortes” las comunidades mapuche realizan un sacrificio en el roquerío, es muy especial además de bailar en la playa. Gracias por estos comentarios y sobretodo todo lo concerniente a las potencialidades turísticas y gastronómicas.
Publiqué un comentario pero no me es posible verlo ???. Se habrá publicado?
Maicolpue es uno de mis más cariñosos recuerdos de mi adolescencia. Desde los 14 años empecé a recorrer el país a dedo.Un osornino generoso me invitó a conocer Maicolpue.En ese tiempo habían unas 4cabañas,un río que desembocaba en el mar,orillado por un bosque ancestral, con desechos de troncos podridos por el agua,dónde anidaban insectos bellos. La playa no estaba pisada casi y al bañarse te rodean toninas juguetonas.Comia con esa hambre que despierta el aire de mar,las caminatas y el baño,con el cuerpo empapado de sal.Fueron días felices.
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