Edison Ortiz
Salimos temprano desde Maullín, primero rumbo a Olmopulli. En el contexto de una investigación que realizamos sobre el impacto del golpe militar en el mundo campesino, entrevistaríamos a miembros de la familia de Dagoberto Pérez quien, junto a cuatro de sus hermanos, fueron víctimas de la represión que desató la dictadura militar hace 50 años. Cruzamos el canal del Chacao a eso de las 11 am y luego de atravesar la isla Grande de Chiloé de punta a cabo, llegamos a Quellón.
No es el pueblito de cuatro cuadras que conocí hace 30 años, cuando me embarqué desde ahí hasta Chaitén para recorrer la Carretera Austral.
Quellón es una ciudad grande, extendida ya no sólo en el plano costero sino que también hacia sus cerros y montes aledaños, llegando hoy a los casi 28 mil habitantes que viven de la agricultura y la ganadería, principalmente ovina. En lengua ancestral significa «lugar de auxilio», lo que no es ninguna casualidad, porque enfilando hacia los canales, está justo al inicio del archipiélago de las Guaitecas, desde donde la navegación se hace aún más difícil.
Llegamos allí a través de Cesar Catalán de Indap Maullín. Él nos había contactado con una antropóloga, Julia Cárcamo quien, en el contexto de la fiesta del Cordero, nos apoyaría para hacer entrevistas a pequeños campesinos.
Nos sorprendió la masividad de la fiesta que congregó a miles de personas provenientes de las más diversas geografías del país. Luego de dos años de suspensión debido a la pandemia, cien expositores dieron vida a la décimo novena versión, el 28 y 29 de enero, en el Parque comunal de Punta de Lapas. Hubo exposiciones para aprender artesanía en fibra vegetal, lana de oveja, madera, gastronomía y otros productos locales.
Chiloé: patrimonio agrícola de la humanidad
Llamó poderosamente nuestra atención que en el mundo existen 66 sitios de patrimonio agrícola, declarados por la FAO, de los cuales cinco están en América Latina: uno en Perú, dos en México, uno en Ecuador, uno en Brasil y Chiloé en Chile. El archipiélago, con su flora y fauna, los métodos tradicionales de cuidado de la biodiversidad, la cultura de la papa, el cordero, el ajo chilote son los rasgos principales de su reconocimiento como SIPAM (Sistema Importante del Patrimonio Agrícola Mundial).
Roberto Rodríguez de Indap Quellón, nos relata que «Chiloé es uno de los territorios más pequeños del planeta pero más ricos en biodiversidad. Eso hace que la FAO reconozca a este lugar como un sitio único de patrimonio agrícola. Por eso es muy importante para nosotros, como profesionales jóvenes del instituto, poner en valor ese patrimonio y preservarlo». Roberto nos comenta, además, que en el contexto de los 50 años del golpe, un desafío sustantivo es «conservar la tradición agrícola, todo el patrimonio oral transmitido de generación en generación. Por ejemplo, yo llevo 12 años aquí, uno de mis primeros trabajos fue en el archipiélago de Quinchao, en la isla de Alao, ahí aprendí cómo se usaba la luna. Ahí me puse a leer y estudiar, cómo la planta también es alterada por los ciclos de la luna. Los viejitos sabían muy bien cuando cultivar plantas de raíz o de hoja. Es un conocimiento ancestral muy subvalorado por los profesionales que llegan con un montón de productos, no escuchan, por eso es importante que los profesionales jóvenes lleguen al campo con humildad a aprender de ellos».
En ese contexto y al final de una maratón de entrevistas concertadas por Julia Cárcamo, hechas con mucha dificultad por el ruido ambiente, partimos con algo de pena, por no haber disfrutado un poco la fiesta en que se ofrecía el cordero más largo de Chile, rumbo al lago Huillinco, a entrevistar a un icónico emprendedor huilliche, don Mario Quelín.
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