En una nueva crónica, Edison Ortiz nos relata su experiencia en Palimo y nos recomienda visitar este lugar enclavado en medio del secano costero, “un valle semiescondido”, en nuestra región de O’Higgins, donde pervive lo mejor de nuestras tradiciones campesinas.
Edison Ortiz
El Regionalista, en vísperas de la proximidad del verano, vuelve a recomendar sitios para visitar, gastronomía a degustar, fiestas que recorrer y personajes por conocer. En esta oportunidad Edison Ortiz nos recomienda visitar un lugar enclavado en medio del secano costero, “un valle semiescondido”, en nuestra región de O’Higgins, donde pervive lo mejor de nuestras tradiciones campesinas. He aquí el relato de ese viaje.
Fuimos a entrevistar personajes y terminamos en medio de una fiesta familiar campesina
Salimos con Agustín y Braian muy temprano desde Rancagua rumbo al secano costero. Íbamos a entrevistar a Don Orlando y la señora Prosperina, antiguos campesinos que se transformaron en propietarios con la reforma agraria.
Nuestro destino era Pailimo – el valle ligeramente escondido en mapudungún-, y al llegar a San Fernando tomamos camino hacia la costa por la ruta H-90. Luego de pasar por Marchigüe, y cuando ya comenzamos a subir las cuestas que nos llevan a Pichilemu, a 37 kilómetros del balneario, nos salimos de la ruta y enfilamos hacia el norte cuando un letrero vial nos señala “Pailimo, 3 kilómetros”. Luego de transitar por algunos kilómetros, llegamos a un costado de la escuela donde nos esperan los anfitriones listos para partir a mirar el proceso de la esquila y proceder a dar cumplimiento a nuestra misión.
Saliéndose de la H-90 para llegar a Pailimo
La esquila en este sector es en realidad una minga familiar –trabajo comunitario y cooperativo-, de larga tradición campesina, en que no se pagan honorarios por ella, sino se recompensa con buena y variada comida y, por supuesto, mejores mostos, buena música y extensa conversación. Allí están todos los vecinos de aquella rural comunidad invitados por la familia Cabezas-Quijada para esquilar sus corderos, mientras amigos cooperan con diversos alimentos e insumos para complementar el cordero asado.
Se prepara pescado frito de “pueblos originarios de la costa”, adobado de manera especial – limón, sal de mar, orégano, ajo, que se mezcla en una bolsa con harina antes de freír -, que le dan un sabor único y es la delicia de muchos comensales. El plato es acompañado con un contundente ceviche que contiene una variedad de pescados, mariscos y moluscos donde abunda el loco; mientras, en paralelo, en un horno original activado por una batería, sobre cuyo asador da vueltas y vueltas la punta de ganso, y tras tres horas adquiere un sabor muy particular.
Paralelo a ello se preparan los aperitivos: ponches de todo tipo, cervezas y si alguien quiere, buenos vinos de la zona de alta calidad. Por supuesto, no faltan todo tipo de ensaladas tradicionales, donde destacamos la de quinoa con garbanzos, tomate, pimento, cebolla fina y cilantro. Los aliños también son muy originales y uno de ellos tiene por ingrediente principal la sal de mar.
De esa manera, la actividad culinaria que acompaña a la esquila se transforma, también, en protagonista de la jornada y se vuelve a confirmar que la comida no es solo el acompañamiento para el funcionamiento físico del cuerpo, sino una parte del ser de un pueblo; el pretexto necesario para hacer comunidad, estimular la buena conversación, el diálogo y las risas. No hay fiesta sin actividad cultural, y menos sin gastronomía.
Cuando se ha concluido de esquilar la última oveja, ya está todo preparado para dar inicio al festejo. Los esquiladores mudan de vestimenta, se ponen a tono con los demás y comienza la fiesta. Chorrea por las mesas la comida, la bebida, las ensaladas y la rica conversación. Un grupo musical, al que se incorpora el dueño de casa como tercera voz, ameniza la fiesta y las clásicas rancheras, que han acompañado por décadas las fiestas campesinas, vuelven a entonarse; no falta quien, con unas copas de más, piensa cortarse las venas luego de tantas desventuras amorosas que se cantan.
Al atardecer, al empezar a ponerse el sol, en un lugar donde no hay luz eléctrica, vecinos y familiares, cuando no son pocos los con “agua dentro del bote”, continúan la fiesta en casa de los anfitriones, celebración que se extenderá hasta medianoche.
Luego, a marcharse y esperar una nueva invitación de algún vecino a esquilar sus ovejas para que, en otro sitio, en otra fecha, la esquila sea nuevamente un pretexto perfecto para volver a reunirse a compartir y disfrutar la vida. Tal como cuando le preguntamos a don Orlando Cabezas sobre el significado del campo en su vida, y recibimos por respuesta una mirada emocionada y una lágrima correr por sus mejillas.
Nosotros, en tanto, algo antes, y no sin un dejo de pena, partimos raudos a otro sitio, a continuar con nuestras entrevistas, sin antes dar gracias por haber estado allí, en el valle escondido, donde pudimos alcanzar un pedacito de cielo y volver a creer en dios y en la belleza de la vida. O como dijimos al comienzo: “vinimos a la esquila y a entrevistar, y terminamos en una fiesta gastronómica”.
118 comentarios en “Un día de Esquila en Pailimo, o cuando alcanzamos un pedacito de cielo”
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