Esteban Valenzuela Van Treek, escritor y doctor en Historia.
1.- El Cerro Grande de la Compañía: vestigios promaucaes y pukará inca
Famoso en estos días por la brutal intervención que en él hizo su dueño, el conservador de bienes raíces de Santiago, Luis Maldonado, el cerro Grande de La Compañía en Graneros es un otero, cerro aislado que no pertenece a una sierra o montaña. Por su dominio sobre el valle del Cachapoal norte, fue defensa de los mapuches picunches de la zona llamados promaucaes -gente salvaje-, por los incas quechuas que invadieron Chile hacia 1480 y fueron derrotados en la Batalla del Maule por el ejército de promaucaes, cauques (Cauquenes) y pencones (mapuches del actual Concepción). Según el cronista Bibar también fue lugar de resistencia a los españoles en las incursiones iniciales de los conquistadores, de 1541 a 1550. Es la frontera sur del imperio incásico, unida por la cuesta de Chada con el pukará de Chena, a través del Camino del Inca (Qapaq Ñan) que discurría a sus pies, y por donde transitaban los chasquis (mensajeros). En su ladera sur conserva boldos y quillayes. Afectado en tres oportunidades por la construcción ilegal de antenas para celulares, la Región debiera rescatar y reconstruir tanto los vestigios incas como promaucaes que perviven. Al verse acosado por las denuncias de la prensa, la comunidad, el Consejo de Monumentos Nacionales y el Municipio de Graneros, el conservador Maldonado se ha abierto a donarlo y hacer de él un espacio patrimonial. Veremos si se cumple.
https://www.monumentos.gob.cl/monumentos/monumentos-historicos/pukara-cerro-compania
2.- El Alto Cantillana: la cúspide de la costa central
Aunque se debate si su cima, la más alta de la llamada Cordillera de la Costa con 2.300 metros de altura en el Chile central, pertenece a la Región Metropolitana o a O’Higgins, es parte esencial del territorio que ambas comparten. Tiene roblerías en lo alto y surte de agua a Mostazal, Graneros y a Alhué y Paine en la Región Metropolitana. La laguna de Aculeo, hoy seca, era fruto de sus hielos eternos en la era previa al cambio climático, la proliferación de monocultivos y urbanizaciones. Hemos propuesto llamar a esta cordillera Oscar Castro, ya que gran parte de sus relatos y cuentos se sitúan en dicho cordón central, desde Chancón al Talamí y el Chivato en Las Cabras. Así, la Región pondría nombre a su cordillera central como lo hace Atacama con la Domeyko, el Wallmapu con la de Nahuelbuta y Magallanes con la de Darwin, al sur de la Tierra del Fuego.
3.- El Cerro del Brujo: ícono de los chiquillanes
El Brujo roza los cinco mil metros y es el pináculo por excelencia de Los Andes en el Cachapoal, subiendo hacia Sewell, Pangal o el Cortaderal, donde se proyecta el Paso Las Leñas con Argentina. Es precioso, misterioso y muy difícil de escalar por su vertical paredón final. Cuentan los antiguos arrieros que era lugar sagrado de los chiquillanes, esos indígenas que se movían por la alta cordillera entre el Aconcagua y la Laguna del Maule y cuya lengua, distinta al mapudungún, fue estudiada por el jesuita Luis de Valdivia, quien valoró la forma de ser silente y mística de esta comunidad que buscaba las altas cumbres. Hay petroglifos en sus cercanías, como los de Pangal, que esperan estudio y conservación. Compite con las cumbres del Palomo y del Paredones en el podio de las más altas de la Región, pero El Brujo es la más escénica de todas, nuestro Mont Blanc.
4.- El Volcán Tinguiririca: termas, dinosaurios y Paso Las Damas
Es la más alta montaña de Colchagua e ícono de una zona de belleza, las Termas del Flaco y sus huellas de dinosaurios, el Paso Las Damas, y una sierra que ha sido escenario de la historia, desde el rescate de los sobrevivientes uruguayos encontrados por el arriero Catalán. Allí nace el río que conforma la provincia señera de la historia de Chile con su riqueza en biodiversidad y agricultura. Estuvo activo en 1917 y los gigantes despiertan.
5.- El Challay: donde la Región comienza
El ícono de bienvenida a O’ Higgins, donde se besa Los Andes con la cordillera central Oscar Castro, Alto Cantillana o de la Costa. Allí debía esperar el ejército patriota a los españoles en octubre de 1814, según Carrera. El camino a Santiago iba por Chada, más al oriente.
Antaño, el Challay estaba rodeado de pantanos, cañaverales (quila) y rancas (pasto duro mezclado con barro con el que hacían sus rukas los mapuches de la zona). Mucho después se hizo el camino y el túnel que conocemos. Viene de la palabra challa que significa una olla. El contraste es total entre su pared norte de riscos y cactus versus la ladera sur de quillayes y boldos abundantes que sobreviven a la gran sequía.
6.- Talamí: el volcán crepuscular de los poetas inútiles
La editorial del Grupo literario Los Inútiles de Oscar Castro se llamó Talamí, porque amaban este cerro que se observa como un volcán desde la Carretera del Cobre, así como desde Alhué en foto que captamos esta primavera. Por estos caminos ancestrales, entre Chancón y Alhué, se escenifica el cuento del cruce en un desfiladero angosto de dos buscadores de oro que se enfrentan para resolver quien pasa montado en su caballo. Los arreboles maravillosos de esta cordillera con este volcán imaginado, alimentan la leyenda de que al atardecer, es él quien tiñe de rojo el cielo. Desde allí, los poetas nocturnos esperan el alba que asoma al oriente en el cerro del Brujo.
7.- Cerro San Rafael de la piedra rosada de Pelequén
Otra cordillera sin nombre es aquella que parte en Pelequén y culmina en la Angostura de San Fernando, donde el río Divisadero comunica San Fernando con el Tambo (posada en quechua) de los incas que habitaron esta zona camino a San Vicente de Tagua Tagua y su laguna mágica vaciada para monocultivo en 1835. El actual cerro San Rafael se llamó El Peñón en el siglo XIX y es famoso por su piedra rosada, cuyas canteras hieren sus laderas, su oro, pero multiplican belleza en cientos de miles de casas, gracias a las manos de los artesanos y escultores. En la imagen, su vista desde el humedal La Capilla de Malloa, que también implora por protección.
8.- Trocalán y los dos Orocoipos sagrados y su puente de cimbra
En Requinoa, Machalí y Rancagua le llaman Orocoipo al cerro Trocalán que domina el curso serpenteante del Cachapoal. Por allí va la ruta del ácido y es el lugar de las antenas radiales. Pero no es el Orocoipo misterioso y pequeño que se esconde detrás del centro deportivo de la Contraloría y al que los destructores del patrimonio pusieron una mega torre de alta tensión en su cúspide. El verdadero Orocoipo es un otero junto al río, en cuya ladera sur brota agua y líquenes, donde los promaucaes hacían sus ritos y bailes y el río loco o nunca domado chocaba en cada demencia de torrentes. Allí, por su piedra, era el lugar más estrecho del Cachapoal y, según los cronistas, hubo un puente de cimbra por el cual los promaucaes cobraban peaje para pasar. Allí está, perdido para los que no ven, pero siga la huella de los siete puentes y llegará. En la foto el Trocalán desde San Joaquín de los Mayos en Machalí. Al extremo derecho se esconde el Orocoipo.
9.- Gulutrén, el cerro “católico” y “mapuche”, donde está el origen
En el corazón exacto de la región, Peumo (que vendría de peumas, sueños mapuches según el antropólogo Jorge Bravo), está el cerro más bello y sagrado de la interculturalidad que somos. Arriba del Gulutrén hay una cruz, pero no hay historiador que no demuestre que este cerro, que asemeja una serpiente perfecta durmiendo, se inspira en el mito mapuche de la creación tras el diluvio o glaciación de hace 14 mil años. Mito que es el mismo en todas las religiones (re-ligar las cosas, explicarse el misterio): la serpiente del agua, Caicai Vilú fue derrotada tras ardua lucha por Trentrén Vilú, la serpiente de la tierra, que permitió la pervivencia de especies y humanos. La batalla ocurrió allí y triunfó la vida. Vaya súbalo, mirará Los Andes, el abrazo del Cachapoal, el Tinguiririca y más allá el mar, y entenderá este territorio y, de paso, puede vivir un milagro y vencer al diablo.
Recomiendo la lectura de estas historiadoras de la UBB de Chillán:
http://repobib.ubiobio.cl/jspui/handle/123456789/1337
10.- El Portezuelo de Colchagua y el secreto del buen vino
Otra cordillera sin nombre es aquella extravagante, rabiosamente verde y bella, transversal entre San Fernando y Palmilla, que alimenta de un clima perfecto al mejor valle de vinos del mundo: Apalta, allí entre Nancagua y Santa Cruz. La cordillera debiese llamarse Colchagua y su emblema es el cerro Portezuelo que domina el valle y surtía de agua desde la Laguna de Tagua por el norte, la Hacienda El Huique por el poniente y Santa Cruz del reposo por el norte, así como Nancagua de los animales en celo que aman la humedad. Dicen los lugareños que, de esos cerros, flota en los vientos primaverales el secreto del mejor vino. Vaya, venga e inspire ese elixir ventoso, y se hará vinero esencial.
https://web.facebook.com/Portezuelo-Cabalgatas-de-Colchagua-309282099278246/photos/319462101593579
149 comentarios en “Los Diez Cerros Emblemáticos de O´Higgins”
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